CUBA

16th March - LGW to Havana...Here I come!

It seemed so long ago that it was booked but here we are!  The Virgin flight to Havana is leaving at 11.30. I am travelling on the equivalent of a double decker bus and will of course be sitting upstairs ahahahah.  And as always with a new place, I'm really looking forward to getting there.  Pictures to come soon!

Landed! - 16th March

First part over and done with! Travelling in the upper part of the plane was great. Only 5 economy rows (and 5 premium)...so much quieter...you can almost forget about the other 350 passengers! If you travel on a new 747-400 I highly recommend it (unless you can spring for upper class of course :-) ).  Security was quick but getting a hold of your luggage was of course the hardest part...took forever...

Guantanamo & Baracoa - 17th March - My first 24 hours...

By the time we got our luggage, met part of the Journey Latin America group and got dropped off close to the hotel (Los Frailes is in the old Havana so it's a pedestrian zone), it was 8.30pm.

Now...the group: it's a little ageé i would say...the fact that most of the plane was older than my old self, should have been a hint to what was to come. So, aside from a couple of backpackers, Cuba has become an old people's travel destination when out of traditional holiday times (schoold holidays/new years etc).

However, there is something to be said for suddenly feeling the young ones (me, Peter and Tina average down the age significantly)..doesn't happen so often anymore.

On the drive from the airport we suddenly found ourselves going back to the 50's...it is a sight to behold the number of 'collectors' cars, trucks etc all around. And Havana is what I would have imagined it to be, although as a european, to see such beautiful buildings, left to fall apart, it does seem a crime.

Having checked into the Hotel with no windows (but with an impressive entrance), we set about finding food and abandoned the rest of the group. Lazaro (the tour leader) had suggested going to the main square (very close) and getting something there. I, for once, wanted to take my friend Alessandro's advice and try out la Gaurida. Tina and Peter didn't want to move far so we randomly chose a place on the square. Big mistake! Terrible! And of course got ripped off...part of the course I guess.

We made our way back to the hotel for our very short night of sleep (we had to get up at 2.40am for a 6.30am flight to Guantanamo).

We are doing the tour of Cuba backwards...we start with the east and make our ay back to Havana, where we we spend the last 3 days in Cuba.

So bright and early off we go back to Havana Airport. Check in was an interesting experience. The boarding cards are hand written, BUT each and every one with an assigned seat...so I now understand why check in for domestic flights in Cuba is two hours. The airport itself would not be out of place in the middle of some godforsaken African nation...still the old Russian plane did take off and although landing was bumpy, we landed in Guantanamo with no issues.

In Guantanamo we met our driver for the next two weeks, nick named Ricky Martin. We then made our way to Baracoa, and along the way got a little taste of the economy and way of living in this part of the country. We bought some bananas from one of the plantations, nearly ran over a donkey and crossed what seemed to be the Andes :-). The roads are not the best. The weather turned as we got to the peak of the mountains and it has rained non stop since we got to Baracoa. The trip took 3 hours so I even managed a snooze on the way.

Baracoa was hit heavily by hurracaine Matthews last october, so although it is somewhat difficult to tell what was already crumbling and what was crumbled by the storm, it is very evident along the sea, where whole buildings were taken apart by the waves. In fact the Hotel we were initially supposed to stay in was still out of order and we are staying at Hotel Porto Santo instead. Beautiful location on the bay...ah and thankfully it has hot water! Unlike Los Frailes last night...

We warmed up with a little Cuba Libre, and have a little rest time before meeting up with Lazaro later, in the hope that the rain stops.

Tip for Cuba: rum cocktails and rum in general, cheaper than water.

Laters!

Baracoa - 18th March

Dinner last night was at Yor. Baracoa produces two things for the rest if the country: cocoa and coconut derivatives. We had a walk around before dinner and saw the church where a piece of the cross left by Cristoforo Colombo is (incidentally he was married here we were told...not sure it's true). And we bought some dark chocolate on the street. Also made with coconut milk. Cow milk seems very rare in these parts.

Dinner at Yor was unexpectedly nice. Soup and a sort of mixed grill with the addition of green lobster, all with a special coconut sauce with chilli. Very very nice, although the coffee was undrinkable. George, the owner, and the staff, were very kind and attentive.

We were shattered after the long day we had had so after a very brief visit to an art gallery, we made our way home and crashed.

Today, we made a couple of short stops in town under the rain and then made our way to a farm on river Toa for an eco boat ride in a ranch run by a man with 6 fingers! Known as 24! He has perfectly working 6 digits on his hands and feet...very peculiar. Also a man with a sense of humour, so we had a laugh as he was rowing us upriver (no engines here).

Next, the cocoa trail! A short visit to a government farm that makes cocoa. We had a funny short tour of how the artisan process runs, in spanish, with me as a translator to the anglosaxon lot! Quite amusing...although there were some politically correct women making comments about the sexist jokes by the guide. Lunch was pretty nice and we tried a hot chocolate made with cocoa and coconut milk.

What significant things have we learnt today? Well, the government claims unemployment is 0.3%. But as the guide pointed out, a doctor, earns 50 cuc a month (50 dollars). So the government pretends to pay, and the cubans pretend to work. They all have businesses on the side and/or work for tips (or indeed, they don't work at all). Also, typically, a man would expect a wife to stay home and cook and tend to the house. To me not a big surprise (still goes on in some parts of Italy) but very shocking for my travel companions :-).

The guide was pragmatic. For example, he views the increased availability of internet (still controlled by the state and available by buying one hour internet scratch card) and tv access pushes people to want sonething better in life and slowly drives the population to want more and work harder to get it...or leave (something else that is happening of course. The search for the better life they perceive in the western world, draws people away from Cuba.

The sun is finally making a show...so I have decided to rest before going into town tonight with Tina and Peter for a walk and dinner, before joining the rest of the group at a local salsa bar. We have to make use of the local bike taxis...so that will be interesting.

Tips for today: still, rum cheaper than water.

Food tips: main staple in Cuba is pork, then chicken and a long way off, fish and beef.

We leave for Santiago tomorrow.

Goodnight!

Baracoa-Guantanamo to Santiago de Cuba - 19th March

The bike taxi last night turned out to be a laugh. Tina was terrified and the roads were of course dangerously unkept :-). We got safely to the square, had a short walk around trying to avoid making our three people table turn into 7 and therefore be obliged to have dinner with four of the avuelite (new nickname for the older bunch in the group). We dined at el Buon Sabor. Very similar food to Yor last night but with very nice lobster. Pity they ran out of coconut sauce! For 20 cuc drinks and dessert included, not bad. We did manage to also avoid the salsa place but bumped into Lazaro and Ricky and had a drink with them instead whilst the avuelitas danced with the locals. It's very clear that cubans have fairly low standards as two of the older ladies got invited back to spend the night and Tina was referred to as Kate Winslett (no offence Tina).

We had a laugh talking to Ricky about his life. Initially (in my perfect spanish), I understood that he had a 28 year old daughter...but no! He has a wife and a very fit 18 year old son in the army AND a girlfriend who is 28 years old! Ahahah how could I have made such a silly mistake...

He's from Santiago and he was there for Fidel's funeral. He showed me a video of the main square and it was amazing to see the amount of love the Cuban people had for their dictator.

Today, we spent 5 hours on our lovely minibus making our way from Baracoa to Santiago (briefly stopping in Guantanamo).

I overdosed on the little bananas and currently have a dodgy tummy...

Ah forgot...last night we had a little cuban crisis: one of the aussie ladies accused Lazaro of illegally organising a kitty to pay for tips! Considering that the kitty is held by one of the passengers, it's ridicuolus, so we encouraged him to try and forget about it.

The lady in question is a tad abrupt and strange, but she has a terrible life story. She has lost her husband and two kids. Since her family died, she has been travelling around the world. One would imagine trying to get away from reality. Unfortunately, she is also bitter and full of conspiracy theories which make for painful conversations. Actually, to be quite blunt, she comes across as a spitefull person sometimes.

In fact we have four widows on tour. One of which I share my room with. Her husband died of a brain tumour after they had retired and had started travelling around the world. It's been

three years but she still feels like it's just happened...on the flip side, she continues to travel (about 6 months a year), has a daughter and grandkids (that call her naughty nana) and seems a very nice person.

We had a late lunch at an Italian restaurant run by a man from Crotone (Calabria) who has lived in Cuba for the past four years. I played translator for the group again as he tried to sell cigars as well as the food :-).

As the afternoon was hot and humid, we had a little walkabout in the evening and enjoyed local live mini concerts around town. One would have to say that people here enjoy their drinks. There were quite a few drunken men who attempted to be friendly but at least they weren't too unpleasant (except for the one that insisted in kissing Tina's had I guess).

I passed on the dancing again, and had one nightcap with half of the group on the terrace at the top of the hotel. It has an amazing view of the town and cathedral.

Funny day occurrence: my roommate fell asleep in her chair as Peter was talking about his work in the NHS...nearly falling off the chair :-)))))

Tip: rum cocktails slightly more expensive than water in town...gap still marginal

Goodnight!

Santiago de Cuba - 20th March

I realised last night that I don't seem to be able to finish books or movies...I feel so tired at the end of the day that I can't keep my eyes open for long when I go to bed!

So, today after breakfast, we had our official city tour of Santiago. You will see lots of photos below. We left the main square and drove through a lovely residential area called Alegra. Beautiful colonial houses (not all in great condition but pretty nice). As always with the regime not all is what it seems...most of the houses have of course been taken away from their legitimate owners by the state and then redistributed as offices, student housing and clubs and also to re house families. So far away from our way of thinking that you just find yourself listening and nodding...because the person telling you says it as if it's normal.

Also normal seems to be told what to do and not to take initiatives. Lazaro told us that during a recent hearthquake, people assembled in revolution square waiting for government official to come there and tell them what to do.

We saw an old fort that has been turned into a place of education and a museum for the revolution. Being completely ignorant of Cuba's history, it was interesting to have the guide talk us through the last 100 or so years and Fidel's revolution...it all makes more sense now :-). Although to an outsider like me it does seem that they have given up a dictator for another...

Amongst the monuments we saw today, was the cemetery and we saw Fidel's resting place and the changing of the guard. I hazard to say that the cemetery is the most well kept area of Cuba so far...pristine condition.

At lunchtime we experienced Cuban work etiquette in a bank as we needed to get some local currency for our days in the mountains. One and a half hour to change money...

Having survived the bank, me, Peter and Tina decided we deserved a rest and a treat and made our way to the terrace of the Hilton. It may not be as historic but at least it's not falling to pieces! The view over the harbour and town was amazing and the lunch very decent. We also appreciated the fact that we were alone. As you have to pay 3 cuc to go up, no one seems to go!

After the late lunch we went for an aimless walk and had ice cream in a cremeria for locals (and got ripped off on the price). But the ice cream itself was nice :-).

We then visited Velasquez house and the cathdral (both beautiful and worthwhile). And we ended the day with a drink on oyr hotel's terrace (and got ripoed off by the young waiter!).

Last night we payed 2.50 cuc for our Cuba Libre, but today we were charged 3.50 cuc...go figure. We had made allowance for this happening and it does often. Internet cards that cost 1.50 cuc, sonetimes you pay the right price, sometimes 2 cuc and we have payed as high as 4.50 cuc...but, beggars can't be choosers and these things are not always available (the rum is!).

We had dinner in a private house restaurant. The food wasn't bad and the setting was special. We had the very top terrace of the house, so only our table was up there, and again the view was lovely, the conversation flowed, especially after a few drinks.

Funny event of the day: crazy lady Jaz turned up to the dinner because she thought it was a walk, so poor Lazaro had to walk her back to the main square to make sure she didn't get lost as she didn't want to eat with us!

Early night tonight (10pm), so I am hoping to finish my movie!

Leaving for Bayamo in the morning.

Goodnight!

Santiago to Bayamo - 21st March

After breakfast we loaded up the minibus and drove to Bayamo, stopping on the way, to 'the' holy place in Cuba. La catedral de cobre. Every Cuban, a bit like Mecca, would like to visit it at least once in their lifetime, but the location and lack of meaningful public transport, doesn't make it easy.

We got to Bayamo around lunchtime and after check in and a terrible sandwich, we had a scout around town. It's a pretty little town, with a beautiful catedral and square and seems to have an artistic soul. The far end of the shopping street had some interesting sculptures and there were several small art galleries.

Funny facts for today: crazy lady Jaz went off on her own, got lost, gave our guides telephone number to a local who called to return the lady to us. Earlier on Jaz also managed to remain locked in the minibus during the unloading of our luggage...you had to be there...

Dinner time also provided some entertainment. We all went our separate ways. Me, Peter, Tina and Michelle ventured in a restaurant where locals ate...we had a pretty terrible meal but paid for 4 beers and the whole meal, 6 cucs including tip (that's £5 in our money). Still hungry we ventured to the ice cream parlour and had 4 bowls of chocolate icecream with cake for 50 cents. Not gourmet, but I think maybe my cheapest meal for four ever.

New information: the driver (Ricky) has been ditched by one of his girfriends...jealous of his baby mama and son.

Tips: local restaurants sometimes are not able to supply water...we could only by beer or spirits at the one we were at.

Tomorrow we drive to 'the mountains' and will walk up to Fidel's hide away.

It's an early start...so goodnight!

Santo Domingo & Sierra Maestra - 22nd March

Tiring day today. This morning, we drove to a meeting point where our driver is sleeping tonight and got picked up by jeeps to get to Santo Domingo and later on to the starting point for the walk in the Sierra Maestra, to Fidel's hide out. The place where the revolution was born! It soon became clear why we had jeeps...the steepness of the mountain roads was unbelievable.

We were taken on the walk by Miguel. His great grandfather died during the revolution tortured by the batista army, as he was supplying food and other ammunition to the rebels in the Sierra Maestra.

All of us went to the view point with the jeeps and most carried on to casa Merida. This part of the walk was not too difficult. The Merida family helped hide Fidel and his faithfuls in these mountains. The place is lovely, it's a farm. Once here, we lost another chunk of the group (they waited for us here with coffee), and six of us did the second part of the walk. It took us all the way up to Fidel's hide out. It was quite steep but not too long, so, tired and sweaty (it was very hot), we all made it up there. Except for Jaz who gave up half way.

On the way up Michelle told me about her stop over in London. She met a young man she'd been chatting online to for 3 months when she was in Australia...a blind date! She's 68 and was complaining that she thought he was younger! He's a young 75 year old that races Aston Martin's.

On the way back we took a stroll to the local school as a couple of the ladies had brought pens etc for the kids.

Funny fact: Jaz made the kids take a picture with the Australian flag and impersonated a kangaroo to explain where she was from. Priceless!

Tonight we have dinner in a small restaurant down the road (I call it a restaurant but it's more like someone's house). We are having a lovely barbecued pig (refer to photos).

By the time I got back to the cabin I was very tired...it's been a long day. Unfortunately, I should have imagined it, I had to gave a shower with cold water. The tanks at the back did not look in good shape.

Last funny fact: we are getting used to walking around our 'hotels' with piglet, chickens and dogs as if it was normal :-).

Tomorrow we are off to Camaguey!

...goodnight!

Camaguey - 23rd March

A travel day today. We left Santo Domingo early and made our way to Bayamo and then Camaguey.

Camaguey us a Unesco protected site. It is evident from the suburbs that it is a more affluent area. The houses have a more refined look despite having a similar architecture to what we have seen so far.

Once arrived, we had a quick lunch in an historic building and then did a tour of the historical centre, making use of the local bike tuc tucs. Quite an experience.

Camaguey originally was on the sea, but it was moved inland due to attacks from the sea. The roads are quite narrow and by enlarge cobbled in the centre.

We have now checked into Hotel Colon. Nice entrance but I believe the worst rooms we have stayed in so far. Although we do have hot water...and that has not been a given all the time.

After a shower and rest I'll have a little walkabout before turning in early...early start tomorrow.

Funny fact of the day: Jaz managed to get lost on the way to lunch as she is an 'independent traveller'.

Reflections: as we are gradually moving from a more rural Cuba to the more city oriented Cuba, it is clear that people are by enlarge nicer in the rural parts. In the cities (it was the same in Santiago as it is here in Camaguey), there is a large dose of cinicism towards tourists. I am guessing because in places like Barecoa, they are less used to foreigners and they welcome them like a circus act coming into town.

P.S. We managed to get information on the London attack today. Our thoughts and prayers are with those affected by the senseless act.

On the road: Sancti Spiritus & Trinidad - 24th March

Last night for dinner we ventured away from the main pedestrian area and went back to Plaza del Carmen for dinner. The only eventful things were me having to ask for directions in a dark alley from a fairly normal looking lady and running across a couple of local rats (in Santiago I got my first taste of rats but they were dead in the street).

We did miss out on some top music from a piano bar next to the hotel, but I opted to go to bed as my tummy was feeling a bit dodgey from the beans eaten at lunchtime.

Top marks for dress code: Ricky Martin (the driver) turned up at the hotel with Lazaro, wearing camouflage clothing! Almost a pijama :-). He normally wears a shirt and tie regardless if the heat, so the contrast is marked.

A long travel day awaited us today!

You will first see quite a number of photos of Sancti Spiritus where we stopped on the way to Trinidad. Trinidad pictures from tomorrow!

Sancti Spiritus is the capital of the province where Trinidad is. It's abour 3 hours from Camaguey.

It's a beautiful little town. We were let loose pretty early on after a very short recon withLazaro. Me and the two hermanos (Peter and Tina), had lunch in el Meson (the Footprint guide had it down as the best restaurant in town). Food was pretty nice but most of all, Tina was having a bad day and wanted to avoid eating with the rest of the group.

Funny event of the day: on leaving Hotel Colon in Camaguey, Peter sat on his bed and he collapsed through the middle (the slats had broken). However Lazaro's advice was to not say anything to the staff. The place really was falling apart.

Boring Cuba economics and transport facts:

- we have been coming across people waving money along the road. It's people hitch hiking to work or wherever, showing that they are willing to pay for a ride. As an alternative, there are sone 'official' stops, where a man in a yellow shirt, organizes rides. Some are in trucks that in Europe we use to carry cattle.

- farms/agriculture: most of the land is owned by the state. That is especially true of where we see large sugar cane plantations. There used to be 120 sugar cane plants. The government worked out that they could produce the same tonnes of sugar by using 50 plants, so the closed the rest down. Unesco has now started a program to create replicas of the plants with also accomodation, for tourists! Go figure! As a farmer, it is possible to own land in small parcels. However, it is easier to 'lease' it from the government for 5/10 years as that way, you pay practically nothing for the use. Also, if you organise your farming with other farmers in the form of a cooperative, the government pays for things like tractors and other equipment you need, in exchange for a discounted price on some of the production.

After we left Sancti Spiritus, we stopped at a watch tower in the sugar valley, where they made and sold tablecloths and suchlikes. It was a welcome break after another hour and a half on the bus.

We finally got to Trinidad (another Unesco site) at 16.30. This will be our first experience in casa particulares. The equivalent of our bed and breakfasts. Except that having seen the accomodation the locals live in, we (certainly I) were curious and maybe a little concerned on the quality. However, I was pleasantly surprised. This type of accomodation is sponsored by the governent, so the rooms are not bad and they even gave ensuites. The colour schemes are not exactly neutral, but it was a step up from our last hotel accomodation. I am in a blue room (everything is blue, walls, curtains, bedspread etc).

We had dinner in one of the terrace if one if the other houses (Vivian's). Her husband cooks and she organizes things. It turned out to be our top meal so far. In fact we liked it so much that we booked to eat lobster here tomorrow night.

Special invite: me, Peter and Tina, have been invited to Sydney for Michelle's 70th birthday party in September 2018!

We took a walk to the main square after dinner. Every night there is live music and locals and tourists blend in, have drinks, a little dance etc. It was very pleasant and as it was the weekend also quite busy.

I am looking forward to getting the time to look around Trinidad tomorrow (it seems very pretty) and to spend some time on the beach (one of our very few possibilities).

Goodnight!

P.S. Michelle is going crazy because internet is not very dependable. She's like a 16 year old with her ipad and iphone wanting to communicate with her 74 year old boyfriend! Even puts me to shame!

Trinidad - 25th March

Today we were free to roam but spent some time on the beach on the Ancon peninsula 15km from Trinidad. The good beaches and resorts are in the north in Varadero but Ancon was ok for a short visit. The hotels are run down but the sea is on the Carabbean side. A chance to swim and get a bit of a tan.

Once back in Trinidad we had a nice lunch in a pretty place on Plaza Major...then a walk to digest my very first cuban version of spaghetti lobster. We rounded off the afternoon with a Cuba Libre in the oddest bar in Cuba. It's a tribute to the Beatles and the only place where you are not hounded by cuban music if you want a drink!

Tonight me, the hermanos and Michelle are having lobster at Vivian's house (same b&b we had dinner in last night). We are really looking forward to it as the husband is a top cook.

Thought of the day: Trinidad is a very pretty town and in much better condition than the Cuba we have seen so far.

Pets of the day: Maureen had to dispose of a giant cockroach in her bathroom...yuk!

Which reminds me...Refuse in Cuba: In all our travelling around Cuba so far, I had been finding it odd that although the 'accomodation' for the locals is pretty basic and third world like, there never seems to be rubbish around their homes. Something that in other poor communities that I have visited in the pastwas quite common. So today I asked Lazaro. They put out bags of rubbish every afternoon on specific corners and a horse and cart or similar, comes round to collect it and disposes of it. This way, although we have seen rats and cockroaches, the problem is kept to a minimum.

Addendum: just got back from dinner and a walk. Dinner was top as expected although we have eaten altogether too much today! We took a walk down to a gallery where we had seen some paintings I quite liked. They are by a cuban artist that uses the figure of a clown with some quite dark shades of colour, to represent various aspects of Cuba (transport issues, poverty, government not giving their people what they need and want, etc). A rebel to the revolution you might say. He also has exhibitions in Canada and the US. We went back because my intention was to buy something that would have some sognificance as opposed to the usual holiday trinkets, but unfortunately the guy that dealt with sales etc was absent and after a little wait I left it. And we are leaving early tomorrow, so I'll have to search for inspiration elsewhere. So, after a little walk back to the main square where live music was being played to a large crowd, I've opted for a fairly early night due to our early start

tomorrow.

We have a 10 hour drive from Trinidad to Vinales (although we will be viditing Che Guevara's memorial on the way).

Goodnight!

On the road: Santa Clara & Viñales - 26th March

We had an early stop in Santa Clara at the Che memorial. It was quite impressive. Especially when you compare it to the simplicity of the Fidel's one. It is touching almost to see and realise that unlike a lot of the people he fought alongside, he really was a dreamer. Going from rebellion to rebellion to bring what he thought was justice. Worth seeing!

Camera's are not allowed inside so there aren't many pictures today partly also due to having spent most of the day travelling...10 hours altogether.

Cuban news flash: in Cuba they have a huge problem with alcohol but not with drugs. Consumption of beer an rum is a really serious issue. Our experience is that it is not unusual to see drunken people even in the morning (at night we also have them in London), walking aimlessly around.

Aside from me attempting to take over the drive of the vehicle and giving Lazaro a fright, a fairly uneventful day :-).

Scare of the day: swerving off the road onto the dirt to avoid to dogs on the motorway.

We got to Vinales at 18.30, just in time to settle into our new 'casas' and have dinner. The b&b I'm staying in is very cute. I definately prefer it to the previous blue room in Trinidad.

It's owned by a young couple with a small child (Daniel) and another one on the way. Grandad lives in a small house in the backyard. We are split in 4 houses this time around. So, me, Peter, Tina and Michelle, enjoyed a double round of drinks and a dinner without the avuelitas (the rest of the group). A welcome break after a whole day on the minibus with them).

We took a walk to the main street afterwards, as it's the weekend for the carnival in Vinales, and tonight is the last night. It is amazing to see how many very young children are out late at night! You'd think they have school tomorrow. We had a little dance with the locals. At first glance it's more like places like Barecoa, where tourists are mixed in with the locals in a seamless way. And definately in the minority, unlike places like Camaguey, Santiago and Trinidad where tourism was maybe excessively apparent and the licals a litless friendly and more cinical.

I've just got back to the room and had a quick shower to try and get rid of a headache probably due to a combination of alcohol/loud music and tiredness.

Plus side of being separated from the rest of the group: we can gossip about them!

Tomorrow we appear to have a great day ahead as we'll be taking a walk in what is known as a photographer's dream!

Funny fact: we have been travelling for 10 days and have crossed several railtracks and have only seen one working train and 2 sitting still. I have the distinct impression that rail travel and the rail in general may not be a 'thing' in Cuba.

A special mention to poor Ricky who drove 10 hours today by the way!!! Bravo!

Night night!

Viñales - 27th March

After breakfast we went for a long walk in Viñales valley. We saw tobacco and coffee growing and how the locals use it. 90% of production goes to the governmemt and the rest they keep and are allowed to sell 'unbranded' to the tourists.

It still strikes me as odd that the government has everything under it's command, but it is what it is...power to the people!

The funny thing about Viñales is that they have the same limestone mountains in the shape of what you may have seen in Thailand or Vietnam, but with no water...in the middle of a valley.

Before coming back for a shower and a rest, me and the hernanos had lunch in a tapas restaurant on the main street...we wanted sonething non-cuban for a change :-).

Tonight is the last group dinner. When we get to Havana tomorrow, we will pretty much go our separate ways. So, Lazaro has organised going to a special viewpoint foemr sunset and then dinner.

Strategy lesson of the day: Tina and Michelle have spent the day speaking to people individually/separately to make sure that if there is a common tipping envelooe for Ricky and Lazaro, everyone contributes the same...we do have some strange people on the trip. The mission was successful! Maybe if Trump had used them to make sure his bill passed, he would have been more successful!

Fiat fascination: there are an abnormal number of Fiat cars in Viñales: 126, Punto, Tipo etc...unusual given that we haven't seen Fiat anywhere else in the country (aside from the motorway towards Viñales).

Catch up later!

Later: dinner was in an organic restaurant where they grow their own vegetables and farm animals. Too much food! But seeing the sunset over Viñales was special. The restaurant/farm is a special project and part of the food produced is given away to older people, schools and hospitals.

After a drink with the group back at the b&b we are all off to bed.

Tomorrow we make our way back to Havana where I'll spend my last two nights before coming back.

Challenge for tomorrow: to guess how many kilometres we have covered (but only between the towns). The closest wins a bottle of rum.

Goodnight!

On the road to Havana! - 28th March

We are getting closer and closer to the end of this amazing voyage through the history and culture of the Cuban people.

We left Vinales this morning, on our way to Havana. Our last two nights will be spent here.

We made one stop on the way to a little community called 'las terrazas'. In 1958 the cuban government decided to transform the cinderella of cuba. They started a refirestation program and transformed the whole area. In particular, they terraced a whole area and planted millions of seeds and created a village that houses at this time, roughly 250 families (1,000 people). This biosphere was called la terrazas. However, when the work was finished, the people were no longer allowed to hunt/fish etc, so they introduced tourism. Birdwatchers love the park for example (we saw a small group of japanese guys with camouflaged photo equipment...funniest thing ever). There is also the legend of a lady (Maria) who used to make an afrodisiac coffee but I won't bore you with it. The community also has primary and secondary schools...amazing if you think about it.

We left straight after a quick sandwich and made our way to Havana. We did a quick photo stop at el Morro (barracks on the bay) with an amazing view over the city itself just across the water. We also took the opportunity to tip the driver (Ricky) who has been with us for the past couple of weeks. A small speech was prepared and I was asked to improvise a translation i Spanish...hilarious...

We dropped the luggage off at the hotel (awful Los Frailes) and me and a couple of others wondered aimlessly the streets a few blocks away. And of course managed a little double aperitif in a cute little bar in a side street. Havana is what an english man would call eclectic I guess...ruins are next to beautiful buildings, poverty intersects with what you would call more opulent areas. There appears to be a lot of 'renovation' and bulding work going on...but I am guessing all in Cuban flexible time...

We have Lazaro with us for 3 hours tomorrow morning for a more informative look around.

We got back to the hotel just in time to have to deal with the saga of the organisation of the tip for Lazaro. It transpires that a combination of Michelle being confused, and some people pretending to give money they have not given, means that after much deliberation, each traveller will tip separately (I told Michelle to give the money back after she got so stressed that she was crying...as she was in charge).

Me and the hermanos had dinner not far from the hotel in a governmemt reataurant where we were mostly ignored by the staff, but we managed to eat half decently.

Tina and Peter were tired so they went off to bed, but I walked across the Plaza Veja and bumped into Michelle and the couple we have been referring to as Romeo and Juliet having a drink and listening to some live music. We had one last drink before retiring to our windowless rooms for the night.

Tomorrow awaits! Goodnight!

Rambling in Havana - 29th March

Today I spent the day walking around Havana with no particular destination.

I ended up visiting the modern art museum, the museum of the revolution and riding around in a classic car...and as it was with irange obsessed Michelle, the car was orange.

There was a striking difference between the two museums, as the revolution one was in the ex presidential palace (but left to fall pretty much apart) and the modern art one turned out to be a beautiful space full of cuban art. Very very interesting.

We picked up the orange car in the main square and rode around with a spanish speaking lovely man. We drove around china town, a huge cemetery, isla josefina and along the sea before being dropped off in old Havana. So so nice!

It was so hot that by the end of the day I was truly worn out.

BUT...it was our last night, so we went to a place with live cuban music. Almost the whole group came and despite my reservation it was a lot of fun.

Afterwards, me, Michelle, Reg and Tina went for one last dring with Lazaro and Ricky the driver. We had a giggle and I am now in bed truly shattered.

Tomorrow I fly back to London and I am looking forward to the comforts of home and a morecivilised surroundings, despite hearing we have finally triggered article 50 and the UK is leaving Europe!

Things left to do: buy a Che t-shirt and visit Hemingway's favourite hotel room...although today we did have a small aperitif in the terrace!

Hasta manana!

Leaving Havana... - 30th March

After a horrid breakfast I went with Michelle to Hemingway's room 511 and then on my own for a walk along the water and to the craft shops in an old warehouse. I found the best 'Che' ever!

We bumped into the men and women on stilts...so colourful!

I'll catch up with you all in London!